![]() To get around that problem (without having to spend the money on a Sekonic L-858D series light meter) just take a test shot and check the histogram in the camera. So the tightest area you meter could be quite wide and that means “bright” data is in that circle where you are just trying to meter “dark” data. and with a DSLR the size of that area depends on the focal length of the lens. But most meters are quite a bit wider than that. High-end hand-held light meters sometimes have a spot-meter tool that lets them pick off a 1° circle to meter. The metering can be a bit tricky because most cameras don’t let you spot meter to a particularly tight area. You would then meter both those areas and determine how many exposures difference there is between them. To determine how many shots you need, you would scan the scene with your eyes and try to find the darkest area you can find, and also find the brightest area you can find. Cameras with auto-bracketing do this for you. This is because the original method to collect the HDR data was to take a number of exposures and manual adjust the exposure between each shot. When I shot the total eclipse of the Sun this past August, I captured 12 exposure stops.Įvery camera that has a manual exposure mode (which is every DSLR ever made) can capture the source data for HDR just as well as any other camera. But for some scenes you may find you really want more than 3. the normal, plus 1 darker and 1 brigher exposure. When you use built-in HDR or exposure bracketing (for cameras that have it) most cameras just grab 3 shots. you deciding how to process it on the computer. the question is whether you want to let the camera decide how to process it vs. I haven't worked with Aurora HDR, so I don't know if it offers such options internally or not.All HDR is the result of post-processing. But you'll probably still see the effect, it will just be spread out over a larger area.Īnother option would be to use masks and layers to work with the lighter and darker areas of the image(s) separately before combining them. Again, exactly what it is labeled varies from one application to the next. ![]() You can spread the amount of change in local contrast over larger areas using a 'Light Smoothing' or simply 'Smoothness' slider. So just toning back the whole amount of "HDR" you dial in should help to some degree. Local contrast adjustment is the main thing that "HDR" software does when it tone maps the 32-bit floating point light map it creates back down to an 8-bit (or in rare cases, 10-bit if a display system supports it) image that can be displayed on a monitor. ![]() ![]() Sometimes it may be a slider labeled 'HDR' or 'Strength', etc. Sometimes it is labeled as 'Detail Enhancement' or 'Clarity'. The only way I've found (using other applications) to reduce the effect when only working globally (that is, applying settings to the entire image area at once) is to reduce the local contrast setting. Does the halo effect change when you turn off 'Deghost'? Deghost detects areas of the different frames used to create an "HDR" image that have changed significantly from one to the next and chooses a single frame (or several frames, if more than one has the same alignment of an object) to use for that area of the image while not using that same area from other frames that have large differences. It can sometimes even make the effect worse. The effect is very common and most, if not all, HDR applications will demonstrate it at edges between very bright and very dark areas of an image.
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